BIJOU STANDARD POODLES
Development of Puppy For Owners
7 to 12 weeks
You have read our New Puppy Page and you are feeling good about what to expect.
You have purchased all the right Toys and Things for puppy to be happy
Now what training or special needs does your puppy require ? Well you have come to the right place, so Read On :)
Puppy needs 20 to 22 hours of sleep to grow and develop his body and mind. This is the number one neglected aspect of raising our precious new friend.
It is often why uninformed owners have a puppy exhibit ill temper; the aggression can be due to sleep deprivation.
Just think about how you feel when you do not get your proper sleep. Now place yourself in an environment where it is difficult to communicate to another species . . .
Oh no, they just let the neighbor kid alone with you! I believe you get the idea.
Well, you take a breed or line of dogs that is strong-willed and ZAP, the puppy nips to express that it just wants to sleep!
Unfortunately, many of the pets you pay with your taxes to have euthanized at the county animal shelters became "nasty" dogs
because an uninformed parent used the puppy as a living "child entertainment center". Even Therapy Dogs have their limits never leave a dog unsupervised !
Please pass this reasoning on to anyone you know who is considering a new puppy. Pups raised around children with the best natures still have their limits.
The above warning helps you to start to see the world as a puppy.
Hopefully, you have looked long and hard to find the right character in your new canine companion.
Your puppies family tree (pedigree) is brilliant with individuals of strong breed character, whom have led faithful and outstanding long lives with their owners.
Your puppies Sire (dad) has proven himself to be a superior specimen of the breed by being a breed Champion AND has an Obedience or working title.
You found a breeder with the attitude about breeding dogs that you found ethical and reputable (Finding an Ethical Breeder).
You have met the parents of your puppy or at least the mother, and they were of the character you hope to develop in your new friend.
If you are buying long distance than you have seen current photos and video of the mother interacting with her owners.
Do not be alarmed if the sire lives some distance, perhaps even a continent away, it is the better breeder who utilizes the world's pedigrees.
The mother should be a nurturing jewel of a lady. You asked to see her off lead in an open area or in the house or on video within the breeder's home.
She listened respectfully to her owner and played gently with your children and came to great and sniff you.
That is the type of willingness of cooperation that you wanted in your new puppy. The mother is also a Champion and Obedience title holder which
also says a ton about her ability to be social and a willing if not eager working partner. Which are all qualities you want in your puppy.
To have both parents have titles in Show and Obedience or Working Title is ideal and your best guarantee for stable temperament and eager to please attitude.
It is important that the mom is loving and stable. She instills her temperament in the puppies as she nurses them for 4-6 weeks.
You go to pick up your Puppy. Puppy is confident and curious. He is bold, yet sensitive. He comes from a long line of outstanding "best friends" that the breeder
was happy to tell you stories about as they showed you, your puppy package containing, many useful items and instructions, a pedigree containing
pictures of your puppy's ancestors, your Owner's manual and showed you all the OFA health test reports on the Puppy's Parents which were also viewable online.
This new little friend is very proud to be your new pet and that attitude is what you capitalize upon to help you in training.
Understanding an intelligent, well-bred puppys outlook is your first assignment in learning to allow this bond between human and canine to evolve respectfully.
You watched videos of him growing up and you know about his desires and fears. He is canine, a pack animal. You are now the pack leader.
This is a big responsibility if this is to go without a lot of mistakes !
Second important lesson: the puppy’s mistakes are YOUR mistakes!
My pups have excellent response to voice requests, starting with their first training day on how to "COME" when called at 4 weeks of age.
It is important to talk to your puppy. Vary your tone, to the point of exaggeration, to reflect the meaning of the communication.
Bark/Growl your displeasure and Coo/Happy voice your praise. Not until dogs are much older do they understand individual words.
At this age, tone is your key
A special note must be made here as recommended by Dr. Dunbar, "avoid names that begin with s, sh, or hissy sounding tones."
In nature, these sounds mean danger. Snakes hiss, cat's hiss even people say shhhh when they want an action to stop.
That is what you communicate to "Sassy" or "Chanel" if you pick a "shhh" sounding name. There are successful pets by these ssss sounding names,
but could they have been even better not having to overcome this handicap? The puppy looks at you timidly as you are calling him to come,
but you keep saying that sssss sound. "Samson come, Samson it’s ok, Samson come," yet all the time you look like a nice person.
The puppy remembers you feed it, but it better just urinate to show submission so you know it is not a threat and you can stop saying that sssss sound!
In further training the commands to sit, stand and stay (as well as the politically incorrect "shut up") will be that much more work
for your puppy to decipher from his own name. Actually, you should only use your dog's name with a command when you want an action to be performed.
"Jake sit, Jake shake," would be correct. "Jake stay," is incorrect.
In this case you may ask for the dogs attention, praise the eye contact, then give the command firmly, "stay."
When training for field work we also reccomend you NEVER use the dog's name as a command to fetch. Instead use a word for that action.
The second biggest mistake new owners make after bringing the cutie home is letting the puppy run around everywhere.
Never would I allow a pup to leave the kitchen the first few days unless he is directly on his way outside.
I can't tell you the number of emails I get with people saying "Puppy is still messing ocassionally in the bedroom" ... why is puppy allowed in the bedroom
until they are fully trained ? If puppy regresses then you have expanded the boundries too fast or too big. Again sorry puppy parents but puppy messing is your fault.
If you would like my formula for no mistakes in the house, read on. You must be fair in training your puppy.
Some pups are really wise and give you another hurdle in training. Other pups take or require more instruction or correction.
You will be able to tell from your results how much pressure to apply. Reward with love, and for monumental accomplishments, FOOD verbal praise.
Camera One Canine Actors in San Diego recommends, "Play for 5 minutes, train for 5 minutes," and keep alternating, especially when the pup is young.
This sets the mood of training as a fun time with the owner. But at 7 or 8 weeks of age what the puppy has to learn are the basic house LAWS.
Your pup will have no problem understanding his own area if it is strictly defined.
Remember you are setting the rules that are to be followed (or ignored from time to time) for the next 10 to 15 years.
So please be strict the first few months (really it is not too long to ask) so your adult dog is a pleasure and comfortable in anyone's home.
A few slips of following the guidelines will be setting your pet up for a few slips of the laws in the future.
Keeping your pup in the kitchen is fair training. You have given strict boundaries. Everyone in the house knows it.
Your spouse respects the law; the children respect the law. And if no one breaks the law your pup will be content in his new home.
Only adults are in charge of making certain the pup's schedule is kept. They are the ones that take him to the outdoors for relieving himself.
Remember, I said this is how we make no mistakes. Everyone likes to gather in the kitchen and kitchens usually are not carpeted.
This is why I recommend this central, high use room. People do not gather in the laundry room or the spare room in the basement. That is why the kitchen is fair.
Children can play with the puppy in the puppy's space while a parent prepares meals, etc.
Taking the pup to another room (say to watch television) one night and not the next night, is asking for a lot of howling.
Taking the pup every night in to another room is asking for your first accident. The puppy is too young and you can not watch television
and the bottom end of the puppy at the same time. The goal here is no mistakes.
The puppy is sleeping a lot at this age and if he is wide awake perhaps you could adjust his schedule so he is going to sleep as the household winds down for the day.
For my pups I recommend an exercise pen made of Plastic such as the Petyard or Superyard XT available at Sears or Petsmart or used baby stores.
I like this because it is plastic and won't rust or damage my floors and I can easily hose it off if it gets dirty.
The only draw back is that it does not have a gate but each corner opens up. You can easily use a bungy type cord to make access easier.
I then sit a tarp or non-absorbant material (shower curtain or heavy plastic from Len's Mills or such store) underneath to protect the floors from pee.
Set this in a corner of the kitchen, giving up about 4’ by 6’ to your new project. This is temporary and useful for about the first 4 to 6 months.
Remember – no mistakes. House law number 2 is never, I said NEVER, lift the puppy over the top of the exercise pen! as this teaches JUMPING
Make certain your spouse knows this law, that the children know this law and that Aunt Matilda visiting from England knows this law.
If the pup is shown just once this new way out you might as well fold up the spacious pen right there and then. And then training just became unfair.
Make sure to assemble the expen in a rectangle shape with papers at the far end, so they don't jump in any messes to see you when you approach.
Leave water and blanket and toys at your end. You can now choose to either let puppy out when you go pee during the night or wait until morning.
Second choice is the crate training method which is tried and true, but does make for noisey nights and getting out of bed to toilet.
So, make certain everyone knows the LAW. Always use the door to put pup in pen or to take him out.
Have the pen set up before the puppy comes home.
Also you may have his food made and waiting in the fridge. You may warm it to room temperature when he gets there.
I like puppy to have "softended kibble" or "bland" tin food for the first meal in his new home as his tummy is turning knots with nerves already.
Nothing will make a pup in a new situation more comfortable than you having control over his space and showing it to him (everything set up)
and the aroma of his food being gently warmed and served will be just what a puppy needs. Ahhh, sigh, he is at home.
Thinking like a puppy some more, make certain that half the exercise pen is covered in newspaper for his toilet and the other has a nice blanket,
lots of toys, a hanging 2 quart water bucket and a spot to place the food. Once he has eliminated on the papers and has become a bit calmer, give him his food near his bed.
Tell him calmly how proud you are to welcome such a fine intelligent member to the pack.
As a reward for "pottying" in the right spot (I say, "Go pee on the papers – good puppy") give the pup his first food reward in your pack.
As he is checking this food reward by licking and nibbling say some low tone encouraging words. Go ahead and cover the urine or feces with a sheet or two of paper.
Knowing that all this is ok will make him comfortable and relaxed. Taking him to the back yard to "Pee" may be useless these first few days.
But make sure to use the same command and "during" him peeing and praise.
An important notion: a new area to explore is to be used as reward for understanding the laws so far.
If each area is introduced slowly and only after the first room is understood, you will be well on your way to bragging "no mistakes!"
Do not rush the process!
This has been a detail of the first 7 to 12 weeks.
As you get closer to 12 weeks you will note the pup stops defecating in his exercise pen between PLANNED TIMES that are consistant EVERY day, for walks outdoors.
Then, the urination will be more controlled as well. Some house training manuals say to regulate the amount of water for the puppy.
I believe fresh, clean purified water (not conditioned by water softener or chlorinated) should be available at all times.
Please feed and water from stainless steel dishes. For the water I recommend a galvanized 2-qt. bucket held by a 3 or 4-inch double snap to the side of the exercise pen.
Catalogs that carry the pens will have these buckets available. The snap you will need to buy at the hardware store.
The water being held to the fence this way prevents the bucket from spilling the water everywhere.
If the pup spills his food he can eat it off the floor; if he spills his water, besides being a big mess, he is without water.
Studies show that dogs prefer water cool (not cold) and 3 to 5 inches deep in their pail.
12-14 weeks
Puppy should be staying "clean" all night and most times between outdoor exercise and relief.
If you have had no mistakes so far, you may start one room at a time rewarding your puppy for perfect pack behavior.
Your "Den" is to be respected and a slow introduction to each room is key to maintaining respect from your adoring pup.
Always take puppy out to "Go Pee" every 2 hours (at the least) when pup is out of his pen. Share some evenings with the puppy.
Have puppy lay by your side quietly as you read or watch television; play a little fetch in the family room, or help you create a photo album on webshots.
If he has been trustworthy, let him now venture to a NEW room with you! All the time you should tell him that he has earned your trust.
Tell him, "I trust you now in this new room – follow me." Do not enter rooms with the puppy that you wish to be dog free.
And make certain the behavior you allow him to carry out while you are watching TV (or reading, etc.)
is going to be what you will put up with when he grows another 50lbs +! Remember to be fair in training to build trust.
Now is a great time to introduce basic obedience. My line of poodles trains easily with Praise.
I have never seen this method have problems with the dogs that I produce. It does have critics but those critics aren't training my poodles!
So, I speak from experience – PRAISE WORKS! Just check out my video of Sophie with 5 days of training, see that tail up and her happy.
See my video of Sophie after 4 weeks of training getting her Rally Obedience Title
My method does involve "correction" which may seem harsh to some. However the corrections are only administered the first day or two
(since my poodles are so intelligent) to have a lifetime of a happy confident dog that will listen to me whether I have food in my pocket or not.
However if you wish to use treats to train then I STRONGLY suggest something soft that is easy to swallow quickly.
We used chicken weiners sliced length wise and then diced. This way the puppy gets a treat and we move along fast without having a meal.
Also puppy should not eat enough to be full or to have treats substitute a meal.
I keep weiners diced in a sandwich bag in my fridge so that it is fast and quick to grab for a training session.
I ONLY use treats with young pups to get them trained for showing which I will video tape and add in here eventually.
A puppy kindergarten class with minor agility aspects, would be nice for you to attend if you have found the best class possible in your area.
Not the closest, not the cheapest, but the one that the top dog sport competitors are sponsoring or attending. You should see amazing wins on their web pages.
This takes a bit of research and maybe some driving will be involved. It is worth the extra effort to learn from the best right from the start.
Places like Petsmart are great for getting your puppy's supplies but not for training.
With a Certified Pet Trainer you will learn the proper footwork and body language to help train your "blank slate."
Keep it simple, fun-fun-fun, and non-demanding. Do not go too fast. End on a win. Which means stop after a successful trick, never on a correction.
Learn one command thoroughly before going to the next.
It is good to take your pup along to strange places.
Be cautious about letting him sniff around dirt and shrubs where other dogs may have defecated. Pups are VERY suseptible to Parvo virus.
Do not let your puppy sniff other dogs and vice versa instead distract with a happy voice command "watch me" and a light jog in the opposit direction
and praise when you receive eye contact.
Your puppy is most vulnerable to viruses and disease at this age. At the Vet's office just explain to other dog owners that you are being intelligently cautious!
Pick your puppy up off the ground if another owner doesn’t respect your non-contact requests.
NEVER yank puppy away and say "NO" or you will create a puppy that is aggressive or timid towards other people and dogs.
Use happy distraction instead.
Alternately NEVER EVER EVER EVER baby talk or comfort a scared puppy !!! By doing so you tell the puppy that it is "OK" to be scared
that he is justified in being scared and that the Pack Leader is scared too. Talk about years of undoing behavior problems coming your way.
Instead if puppy is scared of something...go by it again adn again ignoring the article or even going up and kicking it and saying in a confident
commanding voice "no need to be afraid this thing can't hurt us". Puppy won't understand what you are saying but Puppy will understand
that his leader is not afraid so he should not be afraid either.
I see this stupid human behavior every time I go to the Vet's office.
These owners will later be heard telling everyone how "fi fi" is always afraid of Vet offices and they can't figure out why...
or "fi fi" is also VERY scared of lightening and Thunder Storms.
People come to my home and they are just amazed how quiet my dogs are and not barking.
Well my dogs "do" woof and they are trained not to bark.
Any behavior that people "admire" in my dogs are a result of training and consistant rules and reinforcement.
Initially when training the no bark ... when the dogs bark I growl a "NO BARK". If that does not stop the barking
then I grab their muzzle closed, look them in the eye, give their muzzle a shake and growl "NO BARK".
Then I go sit down and wait and see if they got the message...they usually do and if not I will repeat until they do.
I don't jump up when my dogs are excited. I wait until they settle and are quiet and then i get up to answer the door.
Their excitable behavior is not rewarded or reinforced by my actions or reactions.
Other methods of controling barking are shock collars that pick up on the vocal cord vibration and administer a shock the
same feeling as if you put your finger in a light socket (yes I tried it on myself). These collars are very effective because
the dog gets "instant" and consistant consequences to their negative action of barking. However they can only be left on for
short amounts of time as the collar will cause contact irritation from being on the same spot too long.
Citronella collars are another option but I have not heard of many favorable success stories with this.
Spending time to culture a well behaved puppy and dog is TIME CONSUMING... I am the first to admit it..
but just think... 4 months of hell will give you a lifetime of a happy, well trained companion that is welcome everywhere.
Skip the puppy kindergarten "classes" where they believe that letting all the pups run together in a free for all is teaching them important manners.
Some pups may need that -- not yours. You were smart to locate a puppy to buy that stayed with its mother and litter through six weeks of age.
Your puppy learned important lessons such as pack interaction and bite inhibition then and there.
Not in the midst of a bunch of pups of questionable backgrounds all on different vaccination schedules.
Investigate the course instruction. Puppies should be kept on lead, with a buckle collar with focus on their owners.
Each is learning and focused, NOT sidetracked by a riot of pups running loose and out of control or not enough instructors for dogs.
Look for a calm, well-run class with lots of room to be spread out.
Your pup's spirit is already high and happy. He is well adjusted, daring and enthusiastic. Your mission is to maintain that spirit and guide it under your control.
CONTROL is GOAL when I train my poodles. This method at this age has produced first place winners in Rally for me.
Dependable obedience is achieved with a smile from your dog. Dogs love to have guidelines and boundaries.
Dogs appreciate being gently guided by strong, kind hands.
14-16 weeks
This time is the most open to learning your dog's mind will be to learning in his entire life!
Whomever your pup meets, whatever he experiences good or bad, will be remembered his entire life. Never board away from you at this critical time
unless it is unavoidable and unless it can be with a facility that will be willing to have structured encounters for your puppy to develop properly.
You need to train and introduce good new things during these 2 weeks. Things to walk over, things to go through, things to fetch.
Be consistent. At no other time in your dog's life will his brain be capable of absorbing so much.
Make certain to spend a lot of time during these irreplaceable 2 weeks with your puppy . . . BECAUSE at 16 weeks everything shuts down!
The deciduous or milk teeth begin to shed and you’ll be lucky to maintain things you have taught the pup AND keep his mouth happy.
16-20 weeks
It’s here! Teething. Do not stress your pup now. Keep everything simple and give him lots of bones to chew. I do not recommend introducing new lessons.
Work only on what your pup knows already. Insist only on maintaining house manners, lessons already learned and keeping the teeth on HIS playthings.
A note about teeth: remember when you shed your deciduous teeth at age 6 or 7? Twisting the tooth around until it came out.
Being bothered by the next one coming loose or the new one coming in. Well, your pup thinks about his teeth a lot right now.
I don't bother with my pups teeth and just let them come out and in all by themselves. However some breeders do believe in assisting in the process.
They feel that you can help the proper alignment of the bite by encouraging the top incisors to come out first.
If the upper permanent teeth are coming in to place well before the bottom incisors they will hold the bottom ones in better position.
If they come in simultaneously, there may be a crashing of the upper and lower permanent teeth.
Instead of meshing nicely (the top slightly over the bottom teeth – like your own) the bite could become undershot or wry.
It’s good to be aware of this uncommon malady that could be prevented with a little encouragement of the upper incisors to loosen first.
Pushing gently with your fingers is all that is necessary to help the process.
Most owners don’t pay that much attention to the teeth. If you have read this far you are not just another average owner!
So give yourself a pat on the back !!!!
At about 8 months
Teenage begins. Hold on to your training once again until the "testing" of your limits by your puppy settles down --
which will be at..... oh, at about 14 months of age.
14-16 months
Good age to consider some serious training of several times per week will make a willing star performer of your great dog.
Don't forget Bijou Poodles offers an "Incentive" program for getting titles on your puppy !!
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