Something to remember !!!
Set your puppy up for success not failure.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER, DID I SAY EVER USE A HARNESS !!!
I want to convince my puppy people that Training with proper tool(s) and knowledge
(i.e. Flat collar and leash on a puppy) using little pops and "'watch me" game
which is a simple 10 minute lesson, or investment of your time, for a life time solution
in which your puppy will respect and listen to you, the owner, even when collar and leash are not on
because you have taught them how to behave properly, being a good puppy parent
teaching them what the desired behaviour is that you want them to do.
Our Poodles want to please and are happy to learn what you want
and they will also grow confident, knowing they are a member of your pack
verses just "managing" undesired behaviour by with pinching chest with a harness
or pinching the nose with the halti, for the entire duration of the walk
Once the halti or harness is not on, Puppy usually wild with relief
not respecting or listening to their owners, once the constant pressure is removed.
All owners accomplish is controlling direction of puppy only when halti or harness is on.
There is no teaching opportunity or developing a relationship with their dog.
Only bullying them and man handling them, and having pups want to escape !
Leash and Collar = Short term time investment = life time desired RELIABLE good behaviour
best of all, you develop a loving respectful relationship with your fur baby !!
When I see a harness or a halti on a dog, I know that dog is suffering.
The puppy or dog's movement is impeded, the dog won't develop properly
because it can't move properly. Structurally the puppy will be damaged (don't blame us)
Canine Chiropractors are even educating people on NOT using harnesses because of the amount
of permanent damage that these devices cause dogs !
I also know it has bad, lazy parents, who don't care enough to spend the time
to teach their puppy. I feel bad for that dog.
You can use any excuse you want to, but I don't want to see any of my pups on a harness
unless they are over a year of age and doing weight pulling.
Harnesses are made to encourage pulling used "properly" for many Dog Sports
Harnesses (any kind, yes the no jump or no pull ones) do not teach a Poodle or more to the point
teach the owners how to train the puppy and develop a loving respectful relationship.
Harnesses encourage pulling and discourage owner's being a respected partner.
If your puppy is pulling during walks, or jumping, it is up to YOU the owner to teach them not to
it takes 2-4 good corrections for puppy to NEVER Pull or Jump again !!!
Please take the time to teach your puppy, 10 minutes when they are pups = lifetime of well trained dog
IF you do not know how to do this, ask me or find a trainer,
but educate yourself to solve the problem, not create a bigger one.
Gentle Leaders = lazy dog parents. LEARN, just takes 10 minutes to learn how to teach your puppy
to walk properly on a lead, for a lifetime of enjoyment during walks.
I also need to stress, and without being politically "correct" as I have to be frank for our pups sake.
If you have anxiety, or the inability to cope with life, no matter what solid puppy we send you
it will not end up not developing into a confident well adjusted dog,
because you lack the skills to share with that puppy on how
to cope with life stressors. Your puppy will only be as good as your ability
to mirror qualities that you want in your puppy.
Also important to know that if you have Eating Disorders or GI Upset,
puppy may have too, because again, your issues are what you are going to pass onto puppy.
Someone with psychological issues, would be best to consider getting an older dog
who has a calm state of mind, and is already cemented in their behaviour. *Click to read more
HOW TO CREATE SEPARATION ANXIETY OR FEARFULNESS/SHYNESS IN YOUR POODLE
1. Pet your dog, all the time
2. Talk to your dog, all the time
3. Allow your dog to follow you, all the time
4. Allow your dog to be on your lap or laying on your feet, touching you all the time
5. Pet, soothe, comfort, coddle your dog when it whines or barks for attention, or is simply anxious
6. Allow your dog to demand affection/interactions, ie come up and paw at you, and you pat your dog
7. Be emotionally dependent on your dog
8. Allow your dog to do whatever it wants, whenever it wants (ie doggy doors to outside)
9. Provide no structure or rules, no consequences for undesired behavior.
10. Refuse to crate train your dog (believing it is cruel to provide a safe den)
11. Refuse to correct your dog when inappropriate behavior occurs
12. Refuse to train your dog to be calm, relaxed, no barking, no jumping, crate train
13. Allow you and your home to be a free-for-all, where your dog has zero leadership and guidance
14. Let your dog out of the crate when it whines or barks
15. Avoid training, grooming, nail clipping, or anything that makes your dog uncomfortable or unhappy
16. Walking your dog on a tight leash.
17. Letting dog lean into you or hide behind you when scared or uncertain.
18. Never have a consistent routine
19. Never leave your dog alone it its crate while you go out.
20. YOU act scared and or coddle puppy during thunder storms
People 100% you have trained your puppy to be fearful and have separation anxiety because
we have kept siblings that have achieved so much in life to prove how amazing our temperaments are.
So you want to destroy all our genetic hardwiring, all our amazing foundation we have laid, do any or all the above.
Basically, baby, soothe, allow, enable, lean on, and create a toxic dependency,
so when you leave, your dog is a mess, because you have not prepared them to be strong
resilient, robust, independent, and alone. Remember mirror the way you wish your puppy to grow up like.
PUPPY TRAINING TIPS
I often get asked for Puppy Training Tips
I decided to compile video of training techniques that are similar to what I have used.
I watched EVERY video put here to make sure that they are in compliance to techniques I feel will work for you.
Eventually I hope to get behind the camera and show you myself what we do in detail,
but until then I hope these tips will help you.
PLEASE search for AKC or CKC training Groups/Classes. AKC Clubs
will be run by instructors that have accomplished Titles and skills on their dogs
which means they have had to over come all sorts of training obstacles with success
and will have a big tool box of skills to offer you in your training efforts.
Trainers should have accomplished AKC/CKC/UKC titles on their own dogs.
Trainers who have accomplished nothing on their dogs, have no proof of their ability.
WHY would anyone take a chance on a "crackerjack box" trainer like that ?
Classes for my puppy people to AVOID would have phrases like: "we only use positive methods"
"we only teach clicker training"
"we do not discipline"
"we only use positive methods"
Only offering one kind of methodology, really limits a trainer's insight and problem solving skills
Our puppy people need to find a diverse trainer, that will adapt their training to the needs of the puppy.
*Avoid Classes that have web pages that don't tell you anything about their instructors.
*Avoid Classes that are taught by individuals who have not achieved any titles on their dogs
*Avoid private lessons
*Avoid Petsmart
This is what happens when owners are not a good Pack Leader
Their dogs love them, but do not respect or trust them
"Correcting" a puppy is not, "mean" but it is teaching them to respect you
teaching them good behaviour and rewarding that behaviour also teaches them to trust you.
Owners never follow through on training, letting the dog win = dog is the Pack leader
Owners never taught puppy what was good or desirable behaviour = no praise ever = distrustful dog
Puppy was scolded when ever she played with other dogs and scolded around children
so puppy learns that other dogs and kids means she will be punished.
I was prompted to add Cesar Millan's video to my web page on December 2015 when
one of our pups who we named "Mocha" was returned to us at 1 year of age
because the owners said she was psychotic and came to them that way.
Knowing this is just not true I went back and searched our email history. Sure enough I found several
They first asked questions about training and I spent hours typing up tips and tricks for them to follow
Then they wrote again saying trainers didn't help them so I sent them a list of area trainers that could
When I received their last email in March 2015 I realized they were not doing any follow through on anything
and I asked them to PLEASE return their puppy to me.
Silence. I never heard back from them until December 2015 saying they had to return her for their money back
They had a list of behaviours they just could not tolerate
we found out later they bought a new puppy to ruin.
Their complaints were:
1. She snaps and snarls when she doesn't want to do something.
2. She submissive pees all the time.
3. She aggressively attacks other dogs
4. She has a fear of children
5. She will not come when called, instead she runs the other way.
6. She can be aggressive over food or toys
Sure enough I could not get near who they called "Kahlua".
The whites of her eyes showed and she growled at me.
I stood my ground until she calmed and I walked away.
I had to attach a lunge line and she was umbilical to me for 2 solid days.
I never talked to her, as I didn't want to nurture undesirable behaviour, with poor timing in my praise.
Anytime she was in doubt she would pee and when she did pee, I never scolded or said anything.
Us humans have horrible timing and don't speak dog, so when in doubt do not talk.
Kahlua didn't know her name, so we changed that to Mocha as we had a Kahlua already.
I never allowed her on the furniture, bed or allowed her to go in corners.
She laid at my feet and moved when I moved.
Day 3, she came over to me and nuzzled my hand and she trusted me to pat her head
Day 4, I woke up and she came over to the edge of the bed and licked my face.
My husband enjoys baby talking and coddling our dogs, so he also had to be taught to not talk to her
and do not offer her any affection unless she comes to him. Day 4 when she went to him and he said "SIT"
and she did, he was in heaven as he knew she trusted him.
We still must remain calm energy inside, as she can easy get all riled up just by playing.
She has learned that she can express her energy "outside" and we provide her lots of opportunity
to work off all her energy with outdoor play time with our Poodles and visiting Dogs.
This is Mocha after 2 weeks of being with us Firm, Fair and Constant calm energy and trusting us:
(Ruby and Mocha sharing a dog bed and enjoying a Chew together)
*Click for AKC Clubs
AKC Training Clubs are the best place to find skilled, accomplished Trainers
Ideal classes would have a page to introduce you to each staff that trains classes and lists their
Instructor's Training and educational backgrounds.
Each trainer should list the AKC, CKC, UKC titles that they put on the dogs they owned.
Such titles, are "tangible" proof of their abilities and what they have accomplished with their dogs
Such titles also ensure people that a trainer has a tool box full, with a variety of skill sets to offer, based on experience
that they can draw from to assist you and your puppy during your training.
AKC Affiliated Clubs will be the best place to start looking
AKC Clubs
will be run by instructors that have accomplished Titles and skills on their dogs
which means they have had to over come all sorts of training obstacles with success
and will have a big tool box of skills to offer you in your training efforts.
Instructors with online training and courses, is all well and good, shows "interest" on the instructors part, just not any skills
Anyone can go online and obtain certificates and courses in training and do TV shows (I have done a number myself)
But this does not mean that what they have learned can be put into practice. Preference should be given to
Certified Trainers with hands on experience and practical training under accomplished mentors
and especially experience with titling working breeds or difficult breeds in AKC and UKC (not the easy border collies !).
Ideally instructors will also be members of The Canadian Association of Professional Pet Dog Trainers
Basically if you go to class and you hear something you don't like or wish to hear, then you have found the instructor you needed !
Instructors are there to show and tell you what you need to improve on. Not to spend time going over what you already know or are good at.
Even the best Poodle puppy can be destroyed by a bad owner like the above one.
No leadership, no rules, no corrections will really destroy any great foundation we have laid.
BAD OWNERS = BAD POODLES
Submissive Urination
When you get your new puppy, they may have submissive Urination.
They may also "smile" or show you their teeth. Both are VERY submissive gestures.
I talk a lot about being the Boss and being a good Pack Leader and physical Correction.
However this is one case when THERE IS NO PUNISHMENT OR CORRECTION.
Instead you need to learn to not be excited and have low energy around puppy and be LESS dominate
this means if puppy pee's you say nothing and do nothing, but walk away and clean up
when puppy is not looking or around.
Puppy will outgrow submissive urination as they gain confidence in what behaviour is desirable and pleases you more
Submissive showing of teeth or as I call it "smiling" usually does not go away and this is OK.
So it is imperative that as soon as you get puppy you show them how to "get the toy" or "fetch" or "sit" or "shake paw"
because they will learn that this makes you happy and they will offer this behaviour, instead of peeing.
Submissive urination is a dog's uncontrollable, instinctive reaction to the presence of
another dog or human that they feel is superior or is intimidating to them.
It is a subconscious response that cannot be controlled. It is not a housebreaking issue,
although it is more likely to happen when the bladder is full. It can often be a reaction to
a specific action such as putting a leash on the dog or simply leaning down to
stroke him. Cesar Millan's Tips
One of the most important things Cesar Millan wants to get
across is that dogs are dogs, not humans!
Find a canine solution. Often, the solution we would use for a human is totally wrong for solving a dog's issues.
For example, when a human sees a scared or nervous dog, s/he will first offer comfort and consolation.
This would never happen in the animal world and can make the problem worse instead of better, because it reinforces unstable behavior.
Instead be confident, lead by example, act the way you want puppy to act. ALWAYS have a loose leash
never baby talk or coddle your puppy.
BE SILENT and let puppy figure new situations or things out for themselves.
GIVE them the time they need and stay out of the way.
Speak the animal language. When dogs come into our homes, they meet emotional energy for the first time.
We shower them with affection and babble at them in high-pitched baby-talk, so they see us as excited energy.
This is why many dogs don't listen to their human caretakers.
Their mothers never acted this way, where did that calm-assertive leadership go?
STOP TALKING. Our talking and or praising confuses puppy.
Never repeat commands. Say it once then show puppy.
Treat your dog like a dog. We often develop a different agenda for our dogs. We want to make puppies our babies.
From day one, many humans forget to fulfill and understand their dog's needs and instead project their own needs and desires on the animal.
NEVER give free treats or affection. Give a known command such as sit, then reward with a pat, a "good puppy".
Even meal times are a good opportunity to teach a new trick and earn Pack Leadership status
Puppies don't need treats to survive. Treats are like giving a kid candy for a meal, so either don't do it at all, or really limit it to training
We do encourage our owners to feed RAW. Feeding RAW is the perfect time to get puppy trained by
giving the command "sit" then rewarding with "food".
Puppy just learned what behaviour pleases you and will now offer this instead of jumping.
Puppy also just learned you are the provider of food (pack leader)
Be the pack leader! In the absence of a clear leader, a dog, even a submissive one,
will seek to fill what they see as the vacant leadership role. The dog will ignore the owner, act out, and can lead to serious behavior issues.
Imagine if your significant other mistook your needs for the needs of a chimpanzee, where would that leave you? Confused and disoriented.
It's the same for dogs. But their confusion and disorientation manifest in bad behavior such as tearing up the couch or incessant barking.
If we don't fulfill them as a species, our dogs will not live a balanced, centered life. Tips on how to be a good pack leader
Puppies For Dummies (Paperback)
by Sarah Hodgson (Author)
Never owned a puppy before ?
Check out this book at your library or get it cheap on www.amazon.com
I have read it and it is great for beginners.
"At the End of My Leash" star Brad Pattison
THIS GUY IS MY ULTIMATE FAVOURITE !!!!!
If you ever are able to buy or view his shows please do it. His common sense approach will not only
help you lean how your dog thinks, but will aid you in communicating with your Poodle and raising
a perfect family member, welcome everywhere. Common training tips by Brad Pattison
The Pre-Sports Puppy with Rachel Sanders DVD
By Rachel Sanders
available at Clean Run$19.95 Sample video
How to Teach Your New Puppy Their Name
How To Train Your Puppy to Come
..
SKIP THE AD
This is how we train our pups to heel and not jump on us
HIDE AND SEEK GAME
We chop up chicken weiners 4x length wise and then chop into tiny bits.
Put bits into a baggy or treat bag clipped to your belt or in your pocket.
We then take puppy to the yard or safe field.
We say puppy's name and run backwards, when puppy arrives at us and looks at us,
we pop a tid bit into their mouths and praise.
Do this a couple times when puppy is on leash and near you.
Puppy now knows that we have goodies and they will get them if they come or look at us.
We then let puppy loose (if fenced area and puppy has all vaccinations) and walk away, waiting for them to get distracted.
As soon as they are 6 feet away then we call their name and lightly jog
Backwards with a treat in our hand that they can see.
Both the running away and treats will entice the puppy's natural instincts and engage the puppy.
When they start running towards us we can squat down to their level and offer a treat and PRAISE PRAISE PRAISE
when they arrive like it is the best thing in the world that they did!
Get up and keep on walking and repeat up to 6 times when puppy is distracted and not expecting it.
But not too much that they are bored.
Usually running away from the dog works to bring them to you quickly.
As they get the hang of this you might wish to engage in a game of hide and seek
if puppy is confident and happy with the game.
We tuck behind a bush and call the puppy's name
When puppy finds us oh wow "Good Puppy" and treats.
We then start to let them get further and further away making the hide and seek more challenging.
Eventually you will have a dog that LOVES coming to you and no matter what they are chasing or tracking.
If you find puppy doesn't come to you then you may wish to use a more engaging treat
and not feed the dog before the walk so he is extra ready to earn some food.
When the walk is over and you are putting puppy into a crate or car have a "jackpot"
of treats waiting, meaning more than the usual few peices.
This is extra reward for going home so that going home is a good thing for the puppy.
Teach puppy not to bite at the end of this video
When you first get the puppy you MUST teach them what you WANT them to do.
What behaviour is GOOD before punishing them for what is bad.
So when you get puppy home get a toy they seem to like and play it up and PRAISE.
put the toy in in their mouth and PRAISE ..silly, happy, praise so that they know this makes you happy.
PRAISE only when the toy is in their mouth...not when they drop it or do nothing deserving
Also as seen in other videos, rough patting encourages play and biting, so make sure when petting "puppy" you care calm
and puppy is calm and receptive and not wishing to play or you will get nipped.
Now that puppy knows that the toy makes you happy and they get praise for playing with the toy
You can can disipline and then put the toy in their mouths and praise when they hold the toy...
Another idea is when puppy bites you can grab scruff of sides of puppies head, firm shake and a LOUD, Growl say "NO BITE"
lifting the front paws off of the ground when you do so and be serious and calm and firm...release and walk away game over.
IF puppy continues to bite you, it is YOUR FAULT for not being a good leader. My pups will nip me 1x maybe 2x if stronger willed
but that is ALL because I enforce fair rules to them and don't allow it.
We humans would never allow a young child to come over and bite us or hit us, so why would anyone allow such bad behaviour from a puppy
More ideas are listed here: Stop Puppy from Nipping
Always clean puppy's accidents when puppy is outside and can't see you.
Remember what goes in, has to come out 20-30 minutes later so only leave food down for 5 minutes and remove.
Always feed same time every day, even on holidays and weekends. Keep a routine until puppy is toilet trained at least
After 5 minutes, food dish should still have food remaining and if not, increase rations.
The "Match Stick Trick" - used to teach a puppy or dog to defecate on command
The "Match Stick Trick II" - used to teach a puppy or dog to defecate on command, its working.
what Match Sticking is NOT
How to Crate Train Your New Puppy
...
We use the plastic crates as they are more den like
They have less areas for puppy to injure themselves on
Less chances of them grabbing anything to pull in and destroy or choke on.
Also easier to clean if the puppy makes a mess (which they should not if it is the proper size)
Plastic cages also don't have bumpy bottoms like the wire one with a tray will have.
We have had our dogs come up lame from wire cages.
Wire cages are also noisey, rust and damage your floors.
ANY name brand will be fine.
A cage size (20"W X 27"D X 19"H) is the cage size you need for Puppy's first day
and the size that puppy will be shipped to you in.
Upon maturity your Poodle will need a 36" cage (36D" X24"W X26"H )
should do a lifetime, for short time confinement.
Here are some web pages with sizes you may consider:
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751227
Size 36"
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752026
Large (36"L x 25"W x 27"H)
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751213&keepsr=0
Large (up to 65 lbs.): 34"L x 25.2"W x 17.5"H - this is on the smaller side but should do
In order to tiolet/Crate train a puppy in an over sized cage you will need
to make it smaller by blocking the extra space with either cardboard boxes
or toys or wooden wall. Any Cage name brand will do. See the many links
for stores below to check prices online. Walmart, TSC Store or Petsmart
are reasonably priced. Do not get the "wire" cages.
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Sit Down
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Lie Down
TEACHING PUPPY TO WALK ON LEASH
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Walk on a Leash
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Walk on a Leash- Part 1
How to Teach Your New Puppy to Walk on a Leash- Part 2
NEVER USE A HARNESS AS THAT ENCOURAGES PULLING !!
Bijou Poodles does not default to the use of food or treats during obedience training a 6 month old and up age of Dog.
Body language and tone of voice are powerful motivators when used properly. A clear leadership role is what your dog is looking for.
If you are not there to lead, your dog will be forced to assume the role. Praising reinforces good behaviour and creates a language of acceptance
between you and your dog. Food based training has become heavily relied upon in the last decade.
Treating a dog for doing what you want and "expect" of them is LAZY LAZY LAZY training and unnecessary
in most cases and should be avoided altogether in some. This is not to say food rewards are wrong, but we recommend mastering
your dog's natural pathways to learning first and earn their respect as Pack Leader.
You would not believe the owners we see at Obedience Trials desperate to trick their dogs into believing
they have treats in their hands by lining their pockets and their finger tips in scent of treats.
It is just sad that they so lack the wonderful relationship with their dogs that can be achieved by respect.
Lets face it if every time you want your dog to listen to you, you need food, what have you really achieved ?
~ HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DOG TO HEEL ~
We use a flat collar if your puppy/dog is under 1 year of age and move FAST to keep them engaged.
DO NOT WAIT FOR YOUR DOG !!!
IF you learn how to properly use a choke collar … you can consider this on a larger puppy over 6 months of age
Choke collars have a place in training because it is a quick.. QUICK ..snap... "attention getter" or reminder.
NEVER EVER put constant pressure on your dog's collar... if your leash is tight you are doing it wrong.
As soon as leash is tight you need to quickly change direction to the opposite the dog is going in and give a snap and
a happy "watch me" game like voice and be quick to praise "good puppy" when the dog comes to your side and looks at you.
Praise every time the puppy looks up at you as that is the behaviour you want to encourage.
MAKE sure you learn how to use it properly. choke collar should ALWAYS be SLACK no pressure on it.
Poodles get bored quickly, so you have to make things a game and move quickly
I often run or jog to keep them engaged and having fun with quick turns
No more than 10 minutes training in the beginning.
I also use quick turns and slack leash so they get a "correction"
when ever they lag and follow that with the "watch me" voice. Give puppy time to catch up to your side
because when they catch up to your side this provides a learning opportunity for them because then you will praise "good puppy"
If poodle gets distracted by squirel or barking dog or anything.. Yeah... a learning opportunity.
I run in the opposite direction with loose leash and when the length of the leash runs out
the Poodle gets a snap of the leash and a command "watch me" in happy high silly fun voice
and poodle will run to catch up to me putting their attention back onto me in a positive manner.
I NEVER wait for a distraction to leave, but rather use it as a training opportunity.
After all you want an obedient reliable poodle not one that chooses when it will listen to you.
My poodles think training to heel is a game and when we are competing in the ring, ALWAYS have
a big grin on their faces and tails wagging with a prance in their step eliciting laughs from the crowd.
Poodles soon learn it is fun and that they get praise for keeping by my left leg.
Heel Introduction
Please keep in mind my training sessions are Only 5 minutes to 10 minutes long.
Dog with 2 days of heel training
Ruby with 2 days training
Ruby after 4 weeks of daily 5 minute training
(Poor Ruby, I was such a poor handler)
Ruby qualifies for her Rally Obedience level I with average score 97/100
My methods work and I get a happy eager to please dog that I have fun with
Ruby after a couple months training
High in Trial Award
(best score of all the dogs in obedience)
Sophie with 5 days of heel training and now learning the Recall
Sophie 4 weeks later getting her Rally Obedience Level I title !!!!!!
Our methods work with NO TREATS or BRIBES just praise
4 weeks later Sophie earns Rally Obedience Level II (everything is off leash)
The only change I would make here is if dog were to loose
interest in me I would get that focus back by a snap of the leash and
running in the forward direction past the oncoming dogs with a happy "watch me".
After a few experiences like this, as soon as your dog sees another dog coming he will
look to you to see where you are going, instead of the oncoming dogs or people.
